| Sarmento Valley's route |
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In Basilicata, in the evocative setting of Pollino National Park, it exists a place where the interrupted flow marks a path which consists of culture, history and landscape: Sarmento Valley. The place was chosen by the artist Giuseppe Penone to realize a work of art unique in its kind. It is the Vegetal Theatre, a space where the nature is the scene of itself but also the landscape that is represented by a human creation. Our trip starts in Senise, from the special observation point of the artificial Montecotugno lake's large barrage. Along the right side, among orchards and vineyard, there is a panoramic path, and it is also walkable and open to the bicycle. In a landscape covered for the most by the Meditteranean scrub, among oaks and lentisks, it raises in a commanding position the Avifaunal Observatory. The structure, realized by Pollino National Park Body, is a studies and researches centre for the numerous species of the place: little owls, herons, mallards, red woodpecker, blackbird, kites and crows. It is an evocative place, which is in a prevailing position compared to the sorrounding territory, with a large view on the horizon and on the crossing point of the legendary Sinni river, celebrated by the Greek civilization, in the great reservoir: an ermitage sorrounded by the silence of a nature that continuously dialogues with itself and the mankind. Continuing the trip, crossing the old 92 Road, in a panoramic hirpin turns way, next to some old manor farms, cases of rural memories, you come upon a new scenery, as a prelude of Sarmento Valley: the Timpe of Noepoli. The path dominated by the Timpa is a borderland landscape. This is the old gallery of the state road 92, a link desired by the man, who created a photographic objective snapping, as in a voluntary exposure, the summit where Noepoli raises on. The ancient State of Noia, named like this since the 16th century, with the advent of Fabrizio Pignatelli, is in a territory where it has been possible to find different settlements since the 9th century b.C. Theatre: place of the performance. A performance that becomes an everyday life aspect. An everyday life aspect that becomes a performance. We are in San Costantino and San Paolo, the municipalities that are characterized by a strong and preserved identity linked to the arbereshe culture, which was transplanted in this territory by the exiled Albanians in the second half of the 17th century, and still withstands the erosive process in the years, completely showing itself in the Museum of Arbereshe Civilization, which is opened in San Paolo Albanese since 1984. A culture that protects its past: the uniform of this survival is the typical costume. There are three kinds of it, the daily, the feast, the wedding ones, whic differ from each other. The most distinctive one is the female costume for the feasts, which is different from the daily one because of its particular headdresses (këza e cofa) that arranged by wrought filigree hatpins, with a red wollen cloth and numerous pleats of the skirt at the waist, and it holds thanks to two satin cloth-braces. That community of the Arbereshe from Sarmento Valley is strongly rooted in the Greek-Byzantine rite, which has its basis on the wedding ceremony, one of the most interesting in the arbereshe civil life. In the scene there is an argument that develops through an alternate chant between the bride's and the bridegroom's followers. So, the whole town looks as an “alive museum”, as a theatre with bewitching figures acting, which seem to have been taken away from a distant world: going along a tangle of narrow streets and alleys, it is still possible to come upon old shops, where the clever hands of the last craftsman mould the wood and the stone. The route coninues in an ascensional trip towards Pollino's summits: Terranova with its Timpa delle Murge, where the history of the human culture leaves its place to a more ancient history. An obligatory crossing to reach the Timpa is the Earl House - Casa del Conte, a place full of accomodation facilities that are the sign of the tourist vocation of this territory. The hospitality is the norm here, and it is still possible to totally enjoy the familiar atmosphere. This locality is the prelude to the natural show of Timpa delle Murge, the last stop of this enchanting route. |





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